110 lines
5.0 KiB
Plaintext
110 lines
5.0 KiB
Plaintext
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FONE2.DOC Hand-phone wiring connections.
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5/26/87
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(When trouble-shooting your handphone, or swapping its components, the
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following information may prove useful. Downloaded from the AIMS RCP/M,
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this file was originally named FONE. I have reformatted it slightly.
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--Roy Lipscomb)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: 14 May 85 16:04:49 EDT
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From: *Hobbit* <AWalker@RUTGERS.ARPA>
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Subject: Wiring
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To: Telecom@RUTGERS.ARPA
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It's rather difficult to send out schematic diagrams to a network of
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people using regular old ascii terminals, but since wiring inside most
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fones is pretty standard, a description should do the trick. This
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applies to *all* WE phones and ITT phones that use the standard
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dial/ringer/network block/handset configuration. I've rebuilt lots
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of these suckers, and can confidently say that they're all the same.
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Everything basically talks to the network block. The network block
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contains the ringer capacitor, the induction coil that handles the
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handset, and very little else save some spare screw terminals. Left
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to itself, the network block can function as a standard line load [it
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looks electrically like a phone] when a line is connected across RR
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and C. These are the inputs to the coil. The ringing capacitor is
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indeed across A and K as someone mentioned. In addition, older blocks
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have a smaller capacitor across F and RR, to decrease sparking across
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rotary dial contacts.
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HANDSET:
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Green and White: Earpiece leads. These connect to net R and GN
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respectively.
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Black and Red: Mike leads. Connect to net B and R respectively.
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RINGER [TWO-WINDING]:
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Black and Red: To line. Connect to L1 and L2 [or wherever your line
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comes in].
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Grey and Grey/red [these may vary; they are the ''other two'' wires,
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anyway]: Connect to net A and K. The circuit thus
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formed runs from one side of the line to one ringer
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winding, thru the A-K cap, thru the other ringer
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winding, to the other side of the line. This
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configuration has infinite DC resistance, but picks
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up the AC ring voltage.
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RINGER [ONE-WINDING, rare]: Connect the single winding [two wired] in series
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with the A-K capacitor somehow, and this whole thing across the line
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as above.
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ROTARY DIAL:
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Blue and Green: Interruptor. Connect to net F and RR.
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White [2]: Earpiece suppress. Connect to net B and GN if desired.
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TOUCH-TONE DIAL:
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Green: + Line in. Connect to net F.
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Black: + Line out. Connect to net RR.
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Org/Blk: - Line in. Connect to net C.
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Red/Grn: Output common. Connect to net R.
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Blue: Output. Connect to net B.
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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*Note: the above 5 connections will give you a "bare-bones" dial
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configuration without features. Features are mike disconnect, earpiece
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suppress, etc., which are done simply by routing leads to these through the
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extra contacts on the dial instead of directly. If you want the features,
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modify the wiring as follows. If your network block doesn't have the S and
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T terminals, you have an old one designed for rotary dials, and you'll have to
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do kludges.
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EARPIECE MUTE:
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Move Handset lead at White to net S. Also connect Dial White-Blue to net S.
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Connect Dial White to net GN. This routes the earpiece through the dial
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switching mechanism, which resistifies the circuit on button press.
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MIKE DISABLE:
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Move Handset Red to T. Also connect Dial Red to T. This completely disables
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the mike on button press. Make sure Dial Red-Green is connected to R if you
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[more]
do this mod!
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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HOOKSWITCH:
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You'll find many variants of this in different units; some configurations
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switch both sides of the line, some only one, some switch out the ringer
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when off-hook [which isn't necessary, really]. The following should work:
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Yellow: Connect to net L2. This is where the line enters.
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Brown: Connect to net C.
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Green: Connect to net L1. This is the other side of the line.
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White: Connect to F. This is switched line power to the dial and the
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rest.
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Red: Connect to R. This, with Black, is shorting earpiece mute.
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Black: Connect to GN.
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LINE IN:
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Green and Red connect to L1 and L2. Try one polarity; if the touchtone
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dial doesn't work, then flip them. Rotary dials, of course, don't
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matter.
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[end]
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ke sure Dial Red-Green is connected to R if you
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[more]
do this mod!
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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HOOKSWITCH:
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You'll find many variants of this in different units; some configurations
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switch both sides of the line, some only one, some switch out the ringer
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when off-hook [which isn't necessary, really]. The following should work:
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Yellow: Connect to net L2. This is where the line enters.
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Brown: Connect to net C.
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Green: Connect
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