292 lines
13 KiB
Plaintext
292 lines
13 KiB
Plaintext
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In article <C0vw8B.23F@udecc.engr.udayton.edu>, mmaryo@udecc.engr.udayton.edu (Michael J Maryo (U)) writes:
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>closet, a tad smaller than the one stated in the FAQ file. Anyway, he just
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>started his little weed farm a few days ago and is wondering how long it will
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>take for things to start happening. He is a bit impatient, so I am trying to
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Two weeks or so for the seeds to sprout. But soil is not the best sprouting
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medium. Try a moist paper towel folded around them. Be sure it stays
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moist.
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>get some facts to keep him at it. :) Also, his seeds are apparently what he
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>called "red bud" seeds. Are these any good, or does that even mean anything?
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Large, mature seeds are best. From what I understand "red bud" is pretty
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mature.
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>Also, he has them planted in two pots, one with regular "potting" soil (god
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>I love that word, "pot"), and the other with some kind of soil made for
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>cactus plants, which is kind of sandy.
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Either should be good. The roots need both air and water, so be sure your
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soil has good drainage.
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>walls (in the closet) are covered with aluminum foil. He has some Miracle-
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>Grow plant food (liquid), but I told him not to use it until I ask if it is
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>a good idea. Is it? Has anyone out there ever had success with growing?
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A high nitrogen fertilizer (such as Miracle Grow) is great for the
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vegetative phase, but may inhibit flowering if continued into the floral
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phase. What else is there to say? Follow the directions on the bottle.
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14-24 hours of light for the vegetative phase, then once they get big cut
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back to 9-12 hours to make them flower. Get a book with illustrations of
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what male and female buds look like, and throw out the males as soon as
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they differentiate (unless you want to make seeds).
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>am quite interested in hearing any stories or comments on successes/failures.
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All my stories are the ones I've read in "High Times". Pick up a copy.
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Keith Lewis klewis@mitre.org "Mr. Cheap"
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I don't dance to music; music dances to me. Email me for my PGP key.
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The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.
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============================================================================
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In article <1992Nov25.024723.5353@seq.uncwil.edu> session@seq.uncwil.edu (Zack C. Sessions) writes:
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>aoo@po.CWRU.Edu (Akinwale O. Olugbile) writes:
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>
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>Germinate your seeds first. One way I have done it to place them about an
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>inch or two apart between several layers of paper towels in a flat pan.
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>Keep the paper towels moist. Kep the plan in a non-cold place. Doesn't
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>need to be really hot, just not cold. Viable seeds should be 1 to 2
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>inch long sprouts in a week or two. Then plan the sprouts.
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>
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>--
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>Zack Sessions
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Key point here, and one that can't be
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stressed enough - KEEP THE PAPER TOWELS
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MOIST !!!
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---
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jdw%sniff.wfo.dec.com@decwrl.dec.com
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I've a FOAF who carefully germinates his seeds in moist paper towels
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(totally dark, warm place, towels constantly wetted, drop of bleach per
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towel to fight mold), carefully transplants them to rockwool as soon as the
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tip appears out of the crack in the seed (do *not* let them get "an inch or
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two long"; this makes transplanting without killing the seedling difficult),
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making sure he puts the seed in pointed tip up, then eventually to the
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next step up of rockwool size, then eventually to a rock bed for hydroponic
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growing.
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Another FOAF sticks them in water-soaked pots of soil, 1/2" down, point up,
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and keeps them in a warm dark place, wetting the top twice daily. Then he
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just moves them under plain old cool-white flourescents, and they are never
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transplanted.
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FOAF #1 has decided to go with FOAF #2s germinating and starting technique.
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Both were getting comparable results with the two methods (at least for
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germination; #1 has a halide set-up and more space). For example: FOAF #2
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just had five babies born yesterday, starting with five seeds. The babies
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are doing fine, and will never suffer transplantation.
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Two more tips:
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A Russian study showed that seedlings with at least 4" of soil to grow the
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tap root were more likely to go female. The source I'm quoting says "This
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may be why some farmers get female/male ratios as great as 80%/20%."
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Seeds do not last forever, although they can last years if kept in a light-
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tight container. If you use either method above and get >50% germination,
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get some better stock.
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UCSD doesn't share these views. Hell, I bet they don't know a thing
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about tomato farming.
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============================================================================
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I recently saw a *very small* indoor garden that used 4 common shop lights.
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The gardener was using two 12" x 4' shelves attached to adjacent basement
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walls. They were remarkably discreet and almost entirely above eye level.
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Above both shelves he had suspended a pair of 4' shop lights, which ran
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parallel to the shelf, right next to each other. In these lights he used
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both regular ol' 40W fluorescent tubes and the more expensive "grow lights".
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The decision of which to choose was solely an economic one. Fluorescent tubes
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can be found for a buck or two while the purple grow tubes can be rather
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pricey.
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The wall and ceiling above the shelves were covered with heavy duty aluminum
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foil. Also hanging above the shelves, right above the edge, were several
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homemade blinds. These "blinds" were simply a black sheet of vinyl and a white
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sheet of vinyl which were attached a 4' piece of wood. The wooden strip had
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then been fastened to the ceiling. The white vinyl hung to the inside and was
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able to reflect light back onto the plants while the black vinyl hung to the
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outside, making the whole set-up practically invisible. When he needs to
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water, etc. the vinyl is rolled up by hand and tied with a short piece of cord.
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And it can be held in its unrolled position rather nicely by a few strips of
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velcro.
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The ends of the shelves used a different homemade set-up. Using more vinyl
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shades would have suffocated the plants. Instead, he cut a piece of cardboard
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to fit the opening and into the top portion of this cardboard he cut a hole.
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The inside of the cardboard was covered with aluminun foil and the outside was
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painted black. Velcro was attached to the cardboard, the shelf and the ceiling
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so that this panel could be easily attached and removed. Next, he hung two
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small fans from the ceiling. (the clip fans cost him $6.00@ and were his most
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expensive purchase) One fan hung on the outside of his little grow house and
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one on the inside. One fan blew fresh air into the house and the other blew
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air out.
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On one of these shelves the lights were kept on 24 hours each day. Here he
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germinated and grew his herbs to the budding point. The other shelf was
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magical! The lights were cut back and his crop was allowed to reach maturation.
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It was so simple! It was so beautiful! It was so small! It was so inexpensive!
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A setup like this could work almost anywhere.
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Stop participating in organized crime. Grow it yourself!
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============================================================================
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> In article <1993Jan25.063528.16779@fuug.fi>, an2509@anon.penet.fi writes:
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> >I've tried to start cannabis seeds several times, using the suggestions
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> >offered in alt.drugs (germinate between wet paper towels, keep them warm, etc.).
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> >I've gotten about 5 or 6 seeds to the point where the shell of the seed opens
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> >and a small white shoot pushes out of the crack. But the seeds seem to dies
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> >upon transplanting to soil. Is it probably just a bad batch of seeds (all of
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Seed germination, be it with cannabis seeds or any kind of seeds, is a
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delicate art.
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The warm paper towels system works well, but I'd keep them in paper towels
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until you have a bit more sprout than just a small white shoot. I would
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wait until the shoot is a little more than 1/4" long.
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When you transplant them into potting soil, use commercial potting soil
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that has been well dampened before hand. Mixing a bit of peat moss into
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the damp soil might be helpful.
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Pot your seeds close to the surface -- I usually lay the seeds on top
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of an almost full pot, press the shoots _lightly_ into the soil, and
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then just sprinkle some more potting soil on top. Then water; all the
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soil should be kept damp, but not wet, at all times.
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Something I've found helps seeds in the trnasition from paper towels
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to soil is to cover the pot with plastic wrap and put it in a sunny window.
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Poke a few pinholes in the wrap so that air can get in, and check it
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daily. Keep the soil damp -- this is crucial. Cannabis in particular
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*loves* water. Don't drown it, and if it starts molding leave the
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plastic off the pot for a bit, but keep it damp and warm and moist.
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Once your shoots start up to where they're pressing against the wrap, you
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can leave the wrap off. But again, keep the soil wet -- even one day dried
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out can kill all the shoots.
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Hope all this helps; I've only grown pot once, but I'm a chronic
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gardener, and much of the same rules apply.
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--
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*********************************************************
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Laura Lemay lemay@netcom.com
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writer of trifles in shadows and blood
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*********************************************************
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============================================================================
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Plants (and mj in particular) respond to different wavelengths of light
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differently. The optimum wavelengths for chlorophyll production and
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photosynthesis occur in the red and blue ranges, so any light in the middle
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of the visible spectrum is good for vegetative growth. In short, ordinary
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fluorescent lights work great; most incandescents are crappy because they
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put out too much infared (wastes energy, produces heat) and not enough blue.
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It has been suggested that THC is produced as a defense against short
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wavelength ultraviolet light (UV-short). This would explain any truth to
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the rumor that the best ganga is grown at high altitudes. As far as I know,
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no studies have been done. Other botanists speculate that THC is merely an
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insect repellant. Even so, the photochemical potential of UV-short cannot
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be ignored.
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Here are some spectral density graphs (simplified to ASCII)
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from _IES Lighting Handbook_
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250| Cool White (fluorescent)
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200| | | ****
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| | |******
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Power 150| | *******
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(mw/10nm | | *******
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/lumen) 100| | | *********
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50| | | |**********************
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|**********************************
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+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
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300 400 500 600 700 800
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<--UV Blue Green Red IR-->
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Wavelength (nm)
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250| | Daylight (fluorescent)
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200| | |
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Power 150| | | **
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(mw/10nm | | ****| ****
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/lumen) 100| | | *************
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50| | |**|*******************
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|********************************
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+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
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300 400 500 600 700 800
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<--UV Blue Green Red IR-->
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Wavelength (nm)
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|Incandescent Lamps (including tungsten-halogen)
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| *********
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Relative | ***********************
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Power | ***************************
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| *******************************
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| ***********************************
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|***********************************************
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+------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
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300 400 500 600 700 800 900
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<--UV Blue Green Red IR-->
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Wavelength (nm)
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[This is presumably for 3000 K incandesents. Higher temperatures would
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produce this same black-body radiation spectrum shifted to the left. Of
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course, you would then need UV protection. There are fluorescents available
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that simulate *only the visible portion* of 6000-7000 K black bodies. Why
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anybody would use incandescent light for growing when these efficient
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fluorescents are available is beyond me.]
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Mercury and metal halide lamp spectrums are concentrated in a few "spikes"
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distributed through the visible spectrum. They would probably work fine for
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photosynthesis.
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The low-pressure sodium is pretty much a single spike in the yellow; high
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pressure sodium has spikes from green to red (not much blue).
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No regular lights put out significant UV-short, otherwise they would cause
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skin cancer. UV-short lights are designed into special box-type devices
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(such as EPROM erasers) for safety. If you do elect to experiment with
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UV-short, do not allow any humans or animals in the room when the light is
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on. Please post the results of any such experiment to alt.drugs. Inquiring
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minds want to know.
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--
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To post anonymously to alt.drugs send a message to ap.4151@cupid.sai.com.
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All lines after a line containing only "--" will be stripped.
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Remember: These articles are anonymous, but not secure.
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