252 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
252 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
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From: griestk@wpi.WPI.EDU (Professional Freak)
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Date: 6 Dec 93 08:06:43 GMT
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In article <CHH8Cu.4AM@cnsnews.colorado.edu>,
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Panther Modern <raymondb@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> wrote:
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> I used to have plans for something called an "ice gun" It was a device
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>which used dry ice routed through pipes to fire projectiles, the author
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>reccomended AA batteries. Anyway, I know that isn't really pyro, but it
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>seems to be related.. So if anyone has it, I would appreciate if you could
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>post it on here. THanks.
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This is AN article on dryice guns, exactly as I got it, so tab damage or
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whatnots aren't my problems. I personally haven't had opportunity to play
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with this, due to the lack of initiative to go track down some dry ice...
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Good luck, though, and be careful...
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From: floater@hardy.u.washington.edu (Auston Peddicoat)
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Date: 19 Oct 1993 04:04:40 GMT
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I found the following file and thought it was interesting enough to try.
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Anyone out there ever try somthing like this? If so I would appreciate
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some more info (ie: if it works!, modifications, etc). Here it is:
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(spelling mistakes aren't mine!)
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In the past, many people have experimented with the power generated
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by the conversion of dry ice into gaseous carbon dioxide. The most
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common use that I have seen is the dry icy ice bomb is easily made by
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using a two liter plastic bottle, some hot water and some crushed dry
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ice. To make one, one simply puts about a cup and a half of crushed dry
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ice into the bottle, adds hot water, caps the bottle and throws it.
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These bombs are not a joke, and have been known to blow a metal trash
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can fifteen feet into the air, as well as bursting the bottom of the
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can. If you make a dry ice bomb, you had best throw it before it
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explodes due to the enormous force generxplosion of the bottle. A
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friend of mine waited a bit too long on throwing one, and he jammed
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three of his fingers badly, got a huge bruise on his left leg, and one
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of the plasic fragments was propelled with enough force to puncture his
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tennis shoes and cut his foot all to hell. In short, be careful with
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these things.
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One day in May of 1985, an idea was introduced to me by a friend.
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His plan was to control the force of the expanding dry ice and harness
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it to a useful end. The r ice gun. In following these plans, please
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keep in mind that when dry ice is finished expanding, it can generate
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pressures of up to 2400 PSI...for this reason, I recommend that when
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arming the gun and when disarming it, you hold all valves OPEN, and that
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you wear a pair of protective goggles at all times. I will take no
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responsibility for injury that occurs because of the content of this
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file, or through the use of this information. This information is
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intended for educational purposes ONLY.
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Materials needed:
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----------------
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The materials required will vary for each gun produced because of
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the nature of the construction itself and the effect produced by using
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different parts. The following parts, however, are necessary for a gun
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with moderate power and range:
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1- Standard valve. I recommend the kind that is just a lever and
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turns 1/4 turn to open or close and has 3/4" connectors.
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1- Blow gun (These can be found at auto parts stores... shop
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around a little and get one with the highest pressure rating you
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can find (probably 150 PSI)). This will be sometimes referred
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to as a valve also.
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1- Length of hot water PVC piping...this will be used for the
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barrel. I recommend that you use 3/4" piping, because that is
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the kind that fits paint pellets of the type used in KILLER
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best. Note, however, that it is possible to launch anything up
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to the size of an egg with plea provided that the barrel is
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large enough in diameter.
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You will also need various lengths of regular lead or steel piping
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(to construct the actual gun), and adapters to get the blow gun to fit
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the rest of the gun (blow guns usually have connectors that are 1/4" in
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diameter, while the rest of the gun (except the dry ice container)
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should be constructed with 3/4" fittings). You will also need an end
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cap to go on the end of your dry ice container and probably an elbow
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joint.ts: --------------
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1- Standard valve (same kind as above, but with a shorter
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lever).
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1- "T" joint with 3/4" connectors all around.
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1- 6 or 7 inch length of 3/4" diameter pipe.
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1- 3/4" end cap.
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Form-a-gasket and pipe dope
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Construction:
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------------
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Because of the nature of the gun, step-by-step plans are not
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possible. However, a diagram of the gun will give you an idea of what
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has to be done, and construction tips should prove enough to allow focus
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the project.m: -------
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trigger (part of the blow gun) standard
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adaptor______________ : valve
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\ : \
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: : :
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______________________ : _ ; _____:______
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! !\__ __!__________________________________ /! \
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! barrel ! __!__!__! ! O ! \
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!______________________!/ joint B____________/ : : : I \ \
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blow gun_____________/ : : I / \ \
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er________/ : I / !_____!<-joint A
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adaptor____________________/ / ! !
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elbow joint________________________/ /! !
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dry ice container_____________________/ ! !
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end cap_______________________________ _!_____!_
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\!! !!
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+-------+
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NOTES:
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1- The dry ice container can be any size...the one I use is about 6
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inches long by 2 inches in diameter. The lare chamber is, the
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more shots the gun will fire before reloading is necessary.
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2- The elbow joint can be left out...it will only make the gun in
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the shape of a straight rod rather than a "traditional" gun
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shape.
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3- The barrel length can be any length you like, but very long ones
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are cumbersome and very short ones don't allow much accuracy. I
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recommend a length of about 2 1/2 to 3 feet.
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4- All joints except the two mar' should be tightened as much as
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possible and sealed by coating the threads with the
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form-a-gasket and then putting the two pieces together and
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tightening them as much as possible. If you like, you can also
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caulk around the finished and tightened joint.
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5- The joint marked 'B' should be tight, but DO NOT SEAL IT unless
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you do not intend to ever use more than one kind of barrel.
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6- The joint marked 'A' should not be sealed with formt like the
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others because it is the one that you will be filling the dry
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ice into the gun through. To fill the gun with dry ice, detach
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the dry ice chamber pipe from the elbow joint. Load the
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container with as much crushed dry ice as it will hold. Then,
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coat the threads of one of the pieces of the joint with pipe
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dope. This will prevent leakage of the carbon dioxide after it
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has changed into gaseous form.
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7- amber should be about 1 1/2 inches in length for a fairly
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powerful gun. The longer the pressure chamber is, the more
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powerful the gun. On a gun with a three inch pressure chamber,
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we shot a AA battery 500 (yes, hundred) feet across a parking
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lot. Such high power, however, is dangerous, and is not
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recommended for use in games such as Killer, but rather for
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target practice (on INANIMATE objects).
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How to operate-----------------------------
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Once you have the dry ice gun built and loaded, the first thing you
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must do is to open the standard valve and immerse the gun in water.
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This is to check for leaks. If any leaks are present, they will show up
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as streams of bubbles rising from the gun. If any are found, tighten
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the offending joint and put the gun back in the water. When all leaks
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are gone (if necessary, take the whole thing apart and rebuild it from
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scratch to eliminate leaks, eher end of the pressure chamber), release
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the pressure built up so far by closing the standard valve and then
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operating the trigger. You should hear a 'woosh' sound, and the gun
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should kick slightly. This indicates that all is working properly.
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When loading the dry ice gun, it is important to keep both valves OPEN
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until the dry ice container is secure, and then close both valves. Even
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after you are sure that the gun has no leaks anywhere, it is good to
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immerse the dry ice c it is attached to the gun) in water. This warms
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the dry ice and causes it to change into gaseous carbon dioxide.
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After the dry ice container has been immersed for 5 minutes or so,
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remove the gun from the water and dry it off. The gun is now ready to
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be fired.
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Firing the dry ice gun:
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----------------------
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This is the simplest step of all. To fire the gun simply place the
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projectile (I recommend paint pellets) in the barrel of the gun, open
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the standard valve for about a second e it. You should hear a muffled
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rush of air as some of the gaseous CO2 is bled into the pressure
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chamber. Aim the gun at who/whatever you wish to hit, and squeeze the
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trigger. For more power, you can leave the standard valve open and
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squeeze the trigger.
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Disarming the dry ice gun:
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-------------------------
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To disarm the gun, open both valves until you can no longer hear
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the pressure escaping through the barrel of the gun. Then, unscrew the
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dry ice container and place it in cold wa 3 to 4 minutes, or until all
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of the remaining dry ice has evaporated. When all of the dry ice is
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gone, clean the threads on the dry ice container and elbow joint, and
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store the gun in a clean, dry area.
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Suggested modifcations:
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----------------------
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The only really nice modification that I've discovered is to
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replace the pressure chamber pipe with a "T" joint and valve so as to
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make a gun with long, medium, and short range capability. To do this,
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construct the pressure chamberhe gun like this:
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___adaptor I
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: ______________________________________ ________I___
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_____ _ :/! ! I
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___#__!o!/ ! ! I
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! ! ! I
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! ! "T" joint ! O
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________! ! !
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: \ ! !
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: \!_____ _____________!____________
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: ! ! ^
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: !_____________! !
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:__blow gun !______O______!<-standard standard
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! I ! valve #2 valve #1
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! I !
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! I !<-short length
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_!______I______!_ of piping
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!! !!
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+---------------+
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end cap___
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What this does is make a pressure chamber with a variable length.
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The following chart shows the combinations in which the valves may be
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used to create different ranges.
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RANGE ! INSTRUCTIONS
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--------+--------------------------------------------------------
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short ! Open valve number 1, hold it open for about a second,
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! close it, and then open valve #2.
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--------+--------------------------------------------------------
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medium ! Open valve number 1 for about a second and close ite valve #2 closed.
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--------+--------------------------------------------------------
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long ! Open valve #2 before opening valve #1. Open valve #1
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! for about a second, then close it.
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--------+--------------------------------------------------------
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The trigger can be squeezed at any time following any of the above
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procedures. Have fun!
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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griestk@wpi.WPI.EDU - The Mecca of Humanities Courses
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