274 lines
13 KiB
Plaintext
274 lines
13 KiB
Plaintext
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Sanctuary ----------------< The Lockpicking Series >--------------------- S
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Sanctuar --------------------------------------------------------------- Sa
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Sanctua ------------------------< Chapter 3 >-------------------------- San
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Sanctu --------------------------------------------------------------- Sanc
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Sanct -------------------< Written by Havok Halcyon >---------------- Sanct
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Sanc --------------------------------------------------------------- Sanctu
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San --------------< From the HELLFIRE Bulletin Board System >------ Sanctua
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Sa --------------------------------------------------------------- Sanctuar
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S ----------------------< And the City of Sanctuary >------------ Sanctuary
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HELLFIRE BBS - 908-495-3926
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------------
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Sanctuary is always looking for new writers, dist. sites, and couriers
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E-Mail either:
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Red - Sysop of Hellfire, World Head Quarters of Sanctuary, or
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Havok Halcyon - Chief Editor and Co-Founder of Sanctuary
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if you are interested in becoming any of the above. Both people can be
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reached on Hellfire BBS.
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<:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:>
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-=> FUTILE AND POINTLESS DISCLAIMER <=-
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-=> <=-
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-=> Yes, I've included yet another WONDERFUL disclaimer in <=-
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-=> this new phile. Even though I think these things are <=-
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-=> quite futile and pointless (see title), I have chosen <=-
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-=> to put one in because I'm going to assume (like other <=-
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-=> writers) that they serve SOME purpose. Even though by <=-
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-=> the g'ments actions, it would appear that I am wrong. <=-
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-=> So here goes.... Don't pick..uh..locks..yea, locks.. <=-
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-=> Breaking and entering is VERY illegal, so don't do it <=-
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-=> because you will risk years in prison and heavy fines <=-
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-=> if you attempt it and are CAUGHT. The info contained <=-
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-=> herein is for informational purposes ONLY so that you <=-
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-=> can all better yourselves and become well rounded and <=-
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-=> intelligent. NOT, I repeat, NOT so that you can have <=-
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-=> the ability to break into things and steal stuff. OK? <=-
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-=> <=-
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<:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:><:>
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PLEASE, feel free to distribute this phile all over the continental United
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States as well as the rest of the world (If you're in that international
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kinda mood). ...
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Intro
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-----
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Within this brand new, (or real old phile, depending on when you
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get/read it) we're gonna discuss part 5, Lever Tumbler Locks. Part 6,
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which will involve Pin Tumbler Locks, like the locks used in car doors, was
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supposed to be here, but was pushed back slightly due to schedule changes.
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It WILL be in the next phile of the series however..
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Since I won't be compiling any other works into this chapter, it will
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be a bit smaller than the previous philes, but hopefully just as good. If
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you missed the first two, they can be had from Hellfire, as well as any
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other SANctuary philes. We'll start off with a little introduction to
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Lever Locks... A word of warning. If you haven't read the first two
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philes, I would recommend you reading them before this one, or at least
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reading them sometime in the near future. I have written these philes in a
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way so that people who have already read my older philes, do not have to
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deal with re-reading things they already know.
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----------
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- PART 5 - Lever Tumbler Locks
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----------
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The next type of lock we will be covering in this series is going to
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be the lever lock. Even though it is not seen too often, we wouldn't want
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you to be dumbfounded the few times you do run into it. Technically, this
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was the next lock developed after the warded lock, it was in fact made to
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replace the warded lock, so you can assume that they are fairly alike.
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Uses
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----
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A place where you WILL see this lock would be safety deposit boxes.
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But, since it is incredibly hard to pick when it is being used as a lock on
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a safety deposit box, most locksmith's use a "nose puller" to open the
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lock. This involves screwing a sheet metal screw into the key way of the
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box and pulling the door off the box. Some places where you will also find
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lever locks would be older office equipment, chests, cabinets, luggage
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locks, etc. Some early mortise locks are lever locks also.
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Keyway
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------
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Lever locks have a unique look to them. They are a slot cut into the
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face of a metal cylinder with a matching slot on the collar or the lock
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cylinder.
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---------
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- -
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- -
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- [] [] <--- sometimes additional slots are cut
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- [] - in the collar
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- [] <--- Keyway
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----[]---
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Figure 1: Lever Lock Keyway View
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This cylinder or barrel or thimble or nose rises above the mounting
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surface, usually. It is unusual in the way that the face is free to rotate
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even when the key is not inserted. The key, once inside the cylinder,
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usually moves the boltwork directly, just like warded locks.
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The Keys
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--------
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The keys that are used to open these locks are often called flat keys.
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Why? Because that is exactly what they are. They are flat stamped keys
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with no side warding cuts whatsoever. The one cut they have, called the
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throat cut, is near the bow of the key. The key has varying rectangular
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depths near the tip that move the retainers to their varied height in the
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lock.
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Time for Operation
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------------------
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As stated before, lever locks are much like disc tumbler locks. So,
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as in disc locks, the disc is the varying heights mechanisms while in lever
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locks it is the lever mechanism. Here the lever is moved to varying
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heights against a spring by a key, and then the bolt stump is free to be
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pushed through the aligned slots in the interior of levers from one cutout
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area to another.
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In a lever lock, the key engages the bolt just as it would disks in
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disc lock. But in a lever lock, the key elevates the tumblers by rotation
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not my being shoved into a lock like a disc tumbler (figures 2 &3).
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__
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_______________| |
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________________________|
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Figure 2: Key Blade (end of key) of a Lever Lock Key
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__________________________________
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| __________ |<---(as you turn key, this entire lever
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|___________| + |___________| moves up.)
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Figure 3: Lever in a lever lock.
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Notice the shape of the key end. By the way, with this type of lock,
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the key end will always consist of rectangular cuts and no wedge profiles.
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You would insert the key into the lock on its side so that it lies flat.
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The small area marked with a plus (figure 3. The plus means nothing, it is
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only a marker.) is where the key would be inserted into. (The lever,
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figure 3, is inside the lock.) As you turn the key, you would lift up the
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lever bar just as you would be lifting up a disk.
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The cylinder itself holds the key at the proper height in relationship
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to the levers and rotates the key on an axis. The tumblers will come in
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stacks of two, three, all the way up to fifteen. Each tumbler having a
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common pivot point and an individual spring. So when the key reaches is
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TDC (top dead center) it lifts each tumbler to its correct height based on
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the levels and depths of each key bitting as well as the levels of the
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gates (the area cutout on the bottom of the lever). If you have been
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following closely, you should be able to realize that this type of lock is
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much the same as a disc but uses retangular cuts and levers instead of
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wedge cuts and discs.
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One small note to remember is that all lever locks of simple design
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are dead locks.
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For picking a lever lock, a new type of technique is used,
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individually lifting each tumbler to its proper height. The tension
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wrenches for these locks are different from the ones used to pick disk
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tumbler locks, (figure 4) and have slight size differences. In lever locks
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that are most common use that type of tension wrench.
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______________________________
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A
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|____
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Figure 4: Lever Lock Tension Wrench
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The part of the wrench marked "A" is the part that changes. It's
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length may differ from wrench to wrench depending upon the lock it is meant
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to pick. The "A" dimension is the correct size if the wrench corresponds
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to the length of the key from cylinder cut to tip. If the "A" dimension is
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any longer than that, you will not get proper pick manipulation. You can
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usually buy a set somehow which generally will have four or five different
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sizes. You CAN try making your own, but I don't recommend it. If you
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absolutely must make your own, try bending one from .040 music wire and
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then grinding each side flat. As for lifters, your normal set that works
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disc and pin tumblers will also work for levers.
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The basic idea behind lever tumbler picking is to apply unlocking
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tension on the bolt, which makes the stump bear against the inner edge of
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the locked position cutout. After you have tension, a lockpicker will use
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a lifter pick to raise each individual gate until it is lined up with the
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stump. The one to begin picking with is the gate in the back of the lock.
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When the gate and stump and gate align, the stump and gate will make
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contact, and the gate will catch on the stump. As long as tension is not
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released, the tumbler will be held in an unlocked position, even if the
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lifting pressure is removed. The feel of the two contacting should be
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quite noticeable, you might even hear it. You might also notice the
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tension wrench jump slightly when this occurs. You could feel a little
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lessening of resistance, which will come back right away if you over lift.
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WARNING: do not over lift any tumbler, because this will mean that you
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will have to start over. This is a very common, and pain in the butt
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mistake. Some locks even have a little thing inside of them that detects
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over lifting, and will permanently lock the lock if triggered.
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After you have lifted the first tumbler, the one furthest back,
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proceed to the next one, going from back to front. You may notice a slight
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lessening in tension here, or may not. The feel of the tumblers entering
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their gates will feel less and less as you go. After all the tumblers are
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lined up, the bolt moves, unlocking the lock.
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Here is something that you should watch out for. In some locks, they
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make the cuts in the tumblers at extreme degrees. Meaning that in one
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tumbler they will cut it as deep as possible, while in the next, they will
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cut it as shallow as possible. This, by the way, is not possible with disk
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or pin tumbler locks. This is very good security because it becomes very
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difficult to lift one tumbler high enough without touching or causing
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misalignment with the other tumbler. So, one thing to expect with some
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lever tumbler locks is a high-low-high-low-high etc. combination on good
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locks.
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Another thing is to always remember that over lifting is fatal. The
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only way to get the over-lifted tumbler back down is to release tension,
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which will probably cause all other tumblers to drop as well. Also, if a
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tumbler drops down right after you finish lifting it, go immediately back
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to it. And don't forget to go from back to front, since they usually bind
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strongest in back, getting weaker as you get closer to the front.
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In a closing note for lever locks, let me just add that often you will
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come to what appears to be a small lever lock which is in actuality, merely
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a warded lock with a spring retainer that must be lifted before the bolt
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can be moved. Now while the amount of lifting you do to a retainer is not
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critical, for a lever lock it would be.
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---------- ----------
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This concludes the chapter on lever locks. If you are somewhat
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unclear, don't worry 'cause chances are low that you will see a lever lock.
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This section was added so that you can have a complete working knowledge of
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lockpicking if you are ever called upon to use it.
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So that ends this chapter of lockpicking. Next will be chaper 4, pin
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tumbler locks. And possibly more, depending upon how lazy I am.. So I
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sign off saying...
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<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
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<><><><><><> Maturity is Flushing the Toilet When You Are Done. <><><><><>
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<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
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Have I used that before? (oh, and thanks Gary..In
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case you ever read this)
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Downloaded From P-80 Systems 304-744-2253
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