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From wang@ac.dal.caWed Feb 8 01:14:09 1995
Date: 4 FEB 95 23:57:58 -0400
From: wang@ac.dal.ca
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: How to make Bombs book 2 [1/2
here is another book. Follwup comments is welcome. Replies will
be ignored.
May-15-1990 v2.0
WARNING - These files are for study purposes only! I take absolutely NO
responsibility for loss of life or limb, or damage to property,
due to the improper use of these files. Anyhow...have at it!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Rebel Alliance Megcatline ..................................... 1
Firebombs ..................................................... 1
Napalm ........................................................ 1
Match Head Bomb ............................................... 2
Fuse Ignition Firebomb ........................................ 2
Napalm Made Easy .............................................. 2
Gunpowder ..................................................... 3
Ammonal ....................................................... 3
Chemically Ignited Explosives (Exp 1-5) ....................... 4
Thermite Reaction ............................................. 4
Mercury (II) Fulminate ........................................ 5
Nitrogen Triiodide ............................................ 5
Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) ................................. 5
Acetone Hydrogen Explosive .................................... 6
Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... ........................................ 6
Plastic Explosives ............................................ 7
Creation of Thermite .......................................... 8
How to Make a 'Real' Pipe Bomb ................................ 9
Jug Band Bomb ................................................ 11
TNT (Trinitrotoluene) ........................................ 11
Nitroglycerine ............................................... 13
Dynamite ..................................................... 14
Detonating Dynamite and TNT .................................. 15
Bomb Containers .............................................. 15
Polish Flairs ................................................ 15
Household Chemicals and Their Composition .................... 16
Generating Chlorine Gas ...................................... 16
Chlorine and Turpentine ...................................... 16
Generating Hydrogen Gas ...................................... 16
Hydrogen and Chlorine ........................................ 17
Iodine ....................................................... 17
Grain Elevator Explosion ..................................... 17
Where to Find Chemicals ...................................... 17
Acetone Peroxide Explosive ................................... 18
Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosives ....................... 19
RDX Explosive ................................................ 20
Mini-Compound Detonators ..................................... 21
Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor ............................. 23
Stink Bomb ................................................... 24
Cordite ...................................................... 25
Page 1
REBEL ALLIANCE MEGCATLINE
Materials:
79 Cent Bic lighter
Needle-nose pliers
Tin snips or wire cutters
Procedure:
First, rip the metal windguard off the lighter with the pliers and then
then twist the little flame adjuster all the way to the right, and keep
twisting until it won't move up anymore (stop and twist back if it starts
hissing). There is a gap between the flame adjust and the plastic
push-thing (it moves the nozzle up). You then flatten the wind-guard out
and snip a notch in it big enough to fit around the nozzle.
What you will do is you will fit the metal piece in the slot between
the flame adjust and the plastic or the ring around the nozzle, which ever
shows. The metal should be bent down, like the hose on a fire extinguisher.
make sure the 'handle' is snug. You should glue carefully.
You then hold the lighter backwards from how you would normally hold it,
thumb-tab away. You will strike with your index finger. Practice.
Depress the handle with your thumb. Strike, and have instant hell-fire!
Enjoy!
<20>
Bombs
By: Lex Luthor
<20>
FIREBOMBS
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked
rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov
cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and
one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have
been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
NAPALM
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like
jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings.
Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The
soap is
either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do.
Page 2
The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual
way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart
capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double
boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame.
Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the
mess is
stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bath
tub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and
permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.
MATCH HEAD BOMB
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends,
make a
devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.
A plastic baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent
detonation by contact with the metal.
Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one
but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV.
FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB
A four strand home made fuse is used for this. It burns like
fury. It
is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The
exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one,
you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned
out of
sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will
ignite the contents.
<20>
Napalm Made Easy
By Sir Knight
<20>
Napalm is in itself a very simple substance... It can be used for many
things (i.e. getting back at your neighbour!!). Here's what you need:
Materials:
Gasoline
Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy)
Ammonia pellets
Drill
Coke can
Bendable wire
Nail
Procedure:
First, make a mixture of 1/2 Joy, and 1/2 gasoline. Take the Coke can,
and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture. It should look like
this:
Page 3
<20>^<5E>^<5E>^<5E>^<5E>^<5E>^<5E>^<5E>
<- Coke can
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXX <-Mixture
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
<20>
Now, take the drill (or some sharp object) and put a hole through the
ammonia pellet big enough for the nail. Put the nail through the pellet
(which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store) and wire that
to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the
pellet to drop. WARNING: Do not let that pellet fall into the
mixture, as
your wife will soon become a widow.
<20>
CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES
<20>
By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG
THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS
EXPLOSIVES. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL
AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL
YOU IF DONE IN LARGER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY,
DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS
YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU
HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS.
I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES
A) Gunpowder:
75% Potassium Nitrate
15% Charcoal
10% Sulfur
The chemicals should be ground into a file powder (separately!)
with a
morter and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely,
but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and
can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: The potassium
nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burns fiercely. Carbon
dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
B) Ammonal:
Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with
aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the
percentage of
composition for ammonial, so you may want to experiment a little using small
amounts.
Page 4
C) Chemically Ignited Explosives:
Experiment 1:
A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar
(sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of
magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on
it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with
the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on
formation, burning the sugar as well.
Experiment 2:
Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very
well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG
Volcanite'. Here it is: Potassium chlorate + potassium
perchlorate +
ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate +
sugar +
sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent.
(Scarlet = strontium nitrate, Purple = Iodine crystals,
Yellow =
Sodium chloride, Crimson = Calcium chloride, etc).
Experiment 3:
So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it!
Mixture: Ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.
When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric
acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat
vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium
chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may
ignite the hydrogen and begin burning.
Ammonium nitrate: 8g
Ammonium chloride: 1g
Zinc dust: 8g
Iodine crystals: 1g
Experiment 4:
Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-coloured
flame in 30 seconds to 1 minute. Works best if the potassium
permanganate is finely ground.
Experiment 5:
Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas
used in blow torches).
II. THERMITE REACTION
The thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten
iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous
reactions that I talked about to start it!
Starter = Potassium chlorate + Sugar
Main Part = Iron (III) oxide + Aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)
Page 5
Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main part.
To start the reaction place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top
of the starter mixture. Step back! The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide
to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar. When
you first do it, try 3G:1G:1G:1G! Also, there is an alternative starter for
the thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium Permanganate + Glycerine.
Amount: 55g Iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate,
6ml glycerine.
III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES
A) Mercury (II) Fulminate
To produce mercury (II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive,
one might assume that it could be formed by adding fulminic acid to
mercury. This is somewhat difficult since fulminic acid is very unstable
and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out a way to make
it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to
1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please,
if you try this, do it in VERY small amounts and tell me the results.
B) Nitrogen Triiodide
Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive
explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it; sound, air
movements, and other tiny things could set it off.
Materials:
2-3g Iodine
15ml Concentrated ammonia
8 Sheets of filter paper
50ml beaker
Feather mounted on a two meter pole
Ear Plugs
Tape
Spatula
Stirring Rod
Procedure:
Add 2-3g iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for
5 minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes: Retain the solid, decant
the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid). Scrape the brown
residue of nitrogen triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper.
Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter
paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes
(preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather (wear ear plugs when
detonating or cover ears; it is very loud!).
C) Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)
Commonly known as smokeless powder, nitrocellulose is exactly
that; it
does not give off smoke when it burns.
Page 6
Materials:
70ml Concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml Concentrated nitric acid
5g Absorbent cotton
250ml 1M Sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker
Ice bath
Tongs
Paper towels
Procedure:
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30ml
nitric acid. Divide cotton into 0.7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece
in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive
baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then
immerse in
250ml 1M Sodium Bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until
no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels, compress it into
cakes or blocks or gelatanize it with acetone. This is powerful stuff!
D) Acetone Hydrogen Explosive:
Materials:
4ml Acetone
4ml 30% hydrogen peroxide
4 Drops concentrated hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then
add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid
should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a
water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours.
Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at
least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light
it (while standing at least a meter away).
E) Smoke, Smoke, Smoke...
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since
this reaction is not all the dangerous, you can use larger amounts if
necessary for larger amounts of smoke.
6g Zinc powder
1g Sulfur Powder
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
be created.
Page 7
<20>
RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
<20>
Method A:
Materials:
Gasoline - 1 part
Oil - 1 half part
Styrofoam - 1 part
1) Melt styrofoam (remember NEVER at ANY time let the mixture get too hot)!
NOTE: Do NOT inhale the fumes - they are deady!
2) Let cool to a thick viscosity.
3) Mix 3 ingredients together in the following order: Styrofoam, oil, & gas.
4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this
step with extreme caution!
5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer that room temperature, which
is around 88 degrees Fahrenheit.
6) Mold the mixture how you want (different shapes will make it
more or
less lethal).
Dr. Booms Method:
Materials:
20ml gasoline
5-10 plastic bags
10ml oil or starter fluid
50ml beaker or glass bowl
gunpowder, guncotton or acetone hydrogen
Procedure:
Pour gas in glass container and add bags to gas and dissolve until fairly
thick vicosity like melted marshmallow (actually, marshmallows would probably
work just as well or better than plastic bags!) and add oil. Add bags again
until very thick. Add the guncotton and mix well. Keep on adding strips
of plastic until no more will dissolve and then pour in a mold.
NOTE: It would a good idea to heat this stuff with a double boiler.
Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along with
gunpowder, 2 M-80's or any other type of explosive to make it the
equivalent of a Molotov cocktail, but be warned: The fragments (nuts,
bolts, etc.) are deadly. They will penetrate a brick wall when the mixture
is detonated.
Page 8
Detonation:
1) The mixture can be thrown, but sometimes detonation does not occur.
2) The mixture can be wired for an electric charge to be sent through
it. It will detonate without doubt. A regular fuse can be sent through
it also. If this method is used, some sort of timer is recommended.
<20>
CREATION OF THERMITE!
<20>
By Grey Wolf
Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically
anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open
a fortress fone. How here's how you make it. It is very simple.
The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In laymans's
terms, Hemetite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making
large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such
as a
common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric
train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then
place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled
with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct
well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will
be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water of just
fish it out will a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an
iron pot until it all turns a nice light red.
The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can
either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest), but aluminum
filings at your local hardware shop (if you buy the bar, use no less
than 94% pure aluminum - it is called duralumin).
That's almost it! Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings.
The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings. That's
thermite!
Now, to light it! Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of
the thermite (either steal it from a chem lab or buy it at your local
hardware store). If not, order from a chemical supply house. It's pretty
cheap). The ribbon should stick into the thermite like a fuse.
Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch (don't worry, the torch
isn't hot enough to light the thermite). When the burning magnesium
reaches the thermite, it will light. When the thermite burns, get the
hell back! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel, and it does wonders on
human flesh!
Page 9
<20>
HOW TO MAKE A 'REAL'
[> PIPE BOMB <]
<20>
By Shootz Bootz
This file was written for INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY, and NOT for
illegal use. The writer cannot be held responsible for anything you
do to yourself!!!! If there are any spelling or grammatical errors,
then FUCK OFF AND DIE cause I don't really care... my point is driven
across.
Well first of all in order to make a pipe bomb , you must first
have a pipe. It doesn't matter how big, or how small, you could use a
1 inch copper pipe, or you could use a 2 foot long drainage pipe. Once
you have this, you will need a few ingredients first. These
ingredients make a substance called 'flash powder'. This can be a lot
of fun if you make a pile of it about 1/4 lbs. and have your friend
light it with a match (some friend). Well, here's what you need:
1> Potassium Chlorate (get it at any chemical store)
2> Powdered Charcoal (not briquets, take some ash from the fire place)
3> Powdered Magnesium (ground up mag. fire starters from camping sections)
4> Sulfur (you know where to get this!)
5> Some kind of piping
6> Hot glue gun, or melted glue
7> Small drill bit and drill
8> Tissue paper (ie. Kleenex)
9> Mist water bottle + sprayer (Windex bottle, etc..)
The magnesium has to be FINE!!! The finer the faster! You can get
them in the camping sections of Caldor, and Sears. They look like a
block of aluminum on a key chain ($5.00 - $7.00 butthey go a long way!).
Now that you have the stuff, start the work. Find a drill bit
about the size of a pencil point, and drill a small hole about dead
center of the pipe, only drill thru one side of the pipe, don't drill
both sides. Now you should have a piece of pipe, with a small hole
drilled into it. After this, take some hot glue (hot glue gun or
such). Take a piece of regular paper (not tissue) and stuff it into
one end of the pipe, so it plugs up the hole, and is about 2cm into
the pipe. Now fill that end with melted glue over the paper, so its
about even with the pipe, and sit that down on another piece of paper.
Now you should have a pipe with a small hole in the center, and one end
with about 2 cm of glue on it, and 2 pieces of paper on either side of
the glue.
So far so good... now for the flash powder. Pour in the
potassium chlorate (largest amount). Then pour in the charcoal (a
little less than the chlorate). Pour this stuff into a grinding plate,
not the pipe. Now for the magnesium you filed off the block and ground
up finally, make this a bit less than the charcoal amount. Lastly
add the sulphur, only a little though, about half as much as the
magnesium you just put in. Now grind all the ingredients together
until they look like 1 grey dust. Try a little bit (no not the whole
damn thing! save that for the fun later!). Light it and see how fast it
goes off. Your gonna have to fiddle with it until it turns out the
Page 10
fastest (sounds like something else eh?).
Now that you have the flash powder ready, stick a piece of tape
over the small hole you drilled (so nothing spills out). Put the pipe
over a sheet of regular paper so you don't loose any of this precious
flash powder and start to poor it into the pipe. One the pipe seems
full, place a piece of paper over the opening in that end, and pack
that piece of paper, and the powder down into the pipe.
Take the paper out, and pour more powder in. Keep doing his
until its very well packed, and its almost full! Make sure that the
flash powder fills above the small hole you drilled! Now put a piece
of paper over the powder, and give it one last pack (a small rod, and
a hammer will do just fine, but make sure you don't get any sparks!!).
After that, pour in your final glue in the end you just packed,
make sure it fills to about 2 cm of glue in that end, over the paper!
Stick another piece of paper over that end (just glued) and let it
dry, but when drying put it on a flat surface so it hardens flat!
While your waiting for it to dry, take your tissue paper, and lie
it down flat on the table, over a piece of cardboard or something if
its a good table!! Now mix some water with the flash powder (about
1/2-1/2 mix). No it won't kill the powder. Now shake up the
bottle, and spray the tissue paper with the mixture Let it dry, and
repeat the sequence. After about 4 shots on 1 side, repeat on the
other side (flip the tissue paper). Continue this until your liking.
When this is done, and the tissue paper is dry, tear/cut off a small
sheet, roll it, and light it.
If you like it, then fine, if not, then keep spraying it. If you
like to, before rolling it, pour in some flash powder (not too
much!!!) and roll it like a joint. Then twist it. You now have a
fuse (really?!?!). Make sure its long!!
Now for the final assembly. Take the tape off the small hole you
drilled, and poke thru the powder with a pencil point/ice pick or
whatever (or the drill bit!). If you REALLY want to, then put a drop
of glue to hold the fuse in better, but you don't have to!! (not too
much!). Now make sure the glue has hardened for about 1 hour or so
until its rock hard (no ideas!).
You are now the proud owner of a home made PIPE BOMB. Great for
parties/special occasions, weddings, Russians, mail boxes and anything
else you want to do. When you light this bomb, point the end in the
direction you are gonna be running in, and don't throw it (unless your
crazy, and in that case, I don't give a shit!) so it doesn't frag in
your face!!
If you really want to fancy it up, you can always use threaded
steel end caps!!!!!!
Well I hope you enjoyed your fun today, and happy bomb making!
Be safe (hehehe)
Page 11
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>ս
THE JUG BAND BOMB
BY: THE GRAY MOUSER
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
This one is short and sweet:
1) Get hold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline and cap the top.
3) Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and evaporates.
4) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (you can get this real easy
from a snake-bite kit).
5) The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling it against a
solid object.
When this sucker goes off, it is the same as half stick of dynamite.
<20>
HOW TO MAKE TNT
<20>
Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT
(trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high ex-
plosives are all used by the military, because of their fantastic
power, about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and their great
stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being able to be
melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells,
mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers
which resemble dry cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an
electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although
there are other methods.
Preparation of TNT:
1 - Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent
sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In
the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric
acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weight
ratio rather than volume).
2 - Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker
and placed in an ice bath.
3 - Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
4 - Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it
reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while
being heated.
5 - Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are
added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and
an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid.
Page 12
6 - After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice
bath, and cooled to 45 degrees C. When reaching this
temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom
of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid solution
should be drawn off, by using a syringe.
7 - Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the
oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83
degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintained
for a full half hour.
8 - At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60
degrees C, and is held at this temperature for another full
half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once
more only the oily liquid at the bottom.
9 - Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid
is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases
must be accomplished slowly and gently.
10 - Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second
acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80
degrees C to 104 degrees C, and is held for three hours.
11 - After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100
degrees C and held there for a half hour.
12 - After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and
washed with boiling water.
13 - After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred
constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify.
14 - When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the
beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is
done, you have a good quality TNT.
NOTE: The temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and
must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use approximations.
Buy a good centigrade thermometer.
The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or
property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.
Page 13
<20>
NITROGLYCERIN
<20>
by Dr. Boom
WARNING: This stuff is very dangerous, wear goggles at ALL times and
for God's sake don't SNEEZE while making it!
Materials:
Glass bowl and glass rod
Water (lots of it)
Sulfuric acid
Nitric Acid
Glycerin
Refrigerator
Make sure you get a GLASS bowl and stirring rod. The Sulfuric acid
and Nitric acid are about 5 bucks each at a chemical warehouse and you
can get the glycerin from a clear, yellow/brown bar of soap from a
health food store (i.e. - Cardish).
Procedure:
Carefully mix equal amounts of the acids in a glass bowl of 2 parts
water to 3 parts of the mixture of acid. Put mixture and bar of glycerine
soap in the fridge by the milk (don't freeze the damn thing!) and leave it
for 2 hours. Since the mixture won't blow up until 15 C, the fridge's temp-
erature (5 C) will prevent detonation (and we don't want THAT to happen,
or at least not NOW). Shred the soap to a flaky powder and dissolve it in
the acid solution (and KEEP it in the fridge ALWAYS, or ELSE!). Leave it
in the fridge for 5 days (since this process takes a long time), and after
5 days you should have an oily yellow substance (which is quite lethal),
and some liquid acid left. Skim off the excess acid to leave only the
thick yellow gunk (nitro) and add lots of water to it (don't drown it or
you're fucked) and put it back in the fridge until you need it - never
keep it out of the fridge too long (and make sure it's not eaten for
dinner). It can be detonated by dropping it, throwing it, shaking it,
by sneezing on it, or with an electrical charge (such as a timer).
You might want to soak it in sawdust or something similar so it won't
blow up as easily if you happen to accidentally bump it or something.
Page 14
<20>
DYNAMITE
<20>
by Dr. Boom
DANGER: Dynamite is highly explosive (although great fun), and we suggest
that if you actually attempt to make this - make it in very low
quantities so you don't blow the roof off your house. Also use
extreme caution if you live in an earthquake zone!
Materials:
thermometer
glass bowls
stirring rods
nitroglycerin
newspaper or Kieselguhr
sodium, potassium, or ammonium nitrate
guncotton, gunpowder or plastic explosives
cotton and cardboard
detonator (see below)
Newspaper is used here, but originally you use Kieselguhr (a porous
silica substance) but the book says that newspaper works just as well.
With the silica substance it is more like plastic, with wood pulp it is
more like paper mache.
Procedure:
First soak strips of newspaper overnight so they become mushy and then
mush it in your hands (isn't this fun?!?) until it becomes more like a
paste (you can do that with the blender set on liquify to speed things up).
Keep the nitroglycerine in the fridge at all times!
Collect the pulpwith a strainer and let it dry slightly and then add on
add on the chemicals listed above (except for the nitroglycerine) with pulp
being 2 parts and the chemicals being 1 part (ratio 2:1). Mix well.
Almost done! Now put it in the fridge for an hour and then pour 1 part
nitroglycerine and 1.5 parts mixture (ratio 1:1.5) and use the thermometer
to make sure everything is below 15 C.
Now make a cardboard tube 3 inches long with a radius of 1cm. Put
cotton in one end as a plug and pour in the dynamite until it is 2/3
full (2" down the tube) and leave it in a safe (DRY) place where it can
dry peacefully and pray that there isn't an earthquake!
When it's dry, fill the remaining 1 inch (1/3) with either gunpowder,
guncotton or plastic explosives and cap the top and stick in a fuse, which
should be wires with a rocket igniter at the end connected to a copper wire
a L O N G distance away to a power source. You can also use a timer,
but DON'T LIGHT the damn thing!
Be careful with this stuff unless you want to join AstroBoy - the
pressure given off is about 2 million pounds per square inch.
Page 15
DETONATING TNT AND DYNAMITE
by Dr. Boom
Even though TNT and Dynamite are powerful explosives, to set them
off you need a smaller explosion or a charge. For the shock needed to set
them off, plastic explosives can be used. It's easy to make and quite
powerful. Let's say you use TNT: There's the two basic ways to do it.
If you want to use a ping pong ball, fill it half way with TNT and fill
the other half with plastic explosives. Since your using small amounts of
TNT, you can use a LONG fuse (at least 1 foot) of magnesium ribbon
as a fuse, but never put it under a car or it'll blow it up (yes, it's
still pretty damn powerful).
If you're a little nuts and decide to make a large charge, I would
recomment using an electronic detonator or timer. Well, I hope you
enjoy your bomb making (if you ever go to the CN tower, bring a little
ball of Dynamite or TNT and drop it and 30 seconds later, enjoy the
fireworks -the shock is strong enough to detonate it. A penny will
penetrate 1 food into concrete!).
BOMB CONTAINERS
by Dr. Boom
Drill a hole in a ping pong ball and fill it up with plastic
explosives. If you're lucky enough to live in a high rise apartment, do
this: Take your ping pong ball bomb and put a magnesium ribbon fuse
(1 foot long) in the ball (you can add BB pellets) and light it at
midnight and throw it down!
The foot long fuse should should give it 30 seconds to Dr. Boom Doom
Time. I bet you a buck you'll wake up the neighbourhood!
Or, go to a mall and pour gunpowder in an ashtray with the sand
in it. Put lots just under the surface and put a small ball of plastic
explosives. Too bad you can't see the face of the person who tried
to put out his cigarette! I bet he'll fucking stop smoking right away!
Try thick rolled up cardboard cylinders and fill them up with your
favourite explosive.
POLISH FLAIRS
Materials:
Potassium nitrate (saltpeter)
Sucrose (sugar)
Napkin
Procedure:
Mix equal amounts on a napkin and ignite it. It will flare up
and smoke. NOTE: Do not inhale the smoke - it is hazardous!
Page 16
I. LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
Household Product Chemical Compounds
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Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that
keeping it refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum
effect it should be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest.
It also can be used to detonate almost every Ammonium Nitrate
compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that matter.
<EFBFBD>
Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive
<EFBFBD>
Jack The Ripper This one is a
killer it is more powerful and more brisant than C-4. However you
need a blasting cap to detonate or a homemade compound detonator.
Namely Acetone Peroxide detonators can be used here or Mini-Compound
Detonators.
Materials: Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than -
Farm and Feed Stores 32% Nitrogen) or pure Anhydrous Hydrazine
- Chemical Supply House (Be careful with
this one it is very reactive!!!) Large Mixing Container GLASS stirring
rod Storage Container w/tight lid Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator
Procedure: NOTE: mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar
so the reaction is very effervescent & can bubble over the top so use
a jar 6 times the volume of the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of
ammonia gas are released when these two are mixed so wear a gas mask
or be upwind of the mixing. 1) Pour into the container the an amount
of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required.
2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a
time to the container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly),
& then add more. 3) Continue the above process until the ammonium
nitrate no longer dissolves into the hydrazine, and don't worry
about the small amount of ammonium nitrate left over. 4)
Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than
any military explosive.
Page 20
5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture
(100 mesh or finer)
Uses: This mixture has unique absorption and retention properties,
and can be poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine.
This type of land mine is totally disguised and cannot be noticed,
and all you need to do is bury compound detonator in the ground,
which can be detonated by a step switch etc. This type of land
mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless of rain etc...
It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb.
<EFBFBD>
RDX Explosive
<EFBFBD> Jack
The Ripper
The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to
make RDX was so shabby and lame it was probably written by an eight
year old mental patient. So here is mine easy! Straightforward! Comprehendible
!
Materials: Hexamethylenetetramine (drug stores under Hexamin, Urotropine,
& Methenamine) Strong Nitric Acid (chemical supply house or some hardware
stores) Acetone (drug stores and hardware stores) Scale with gram accuracy
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups Thermometer 20-100 degrees
Celsius or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit Several large quart canning jars
Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal
Paper Towels
Procedure: 1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid
in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20
and 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin
of cold water. 2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can
closely maintain the temperature between your basins of hot
and cold water. 3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by
volume of hexamin. Then start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2
teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute time period. All the while
maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30 degrees celcius
by moving it in and out of the cold water basins. 4) When all the
hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55 degrees
Celsius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then
maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.
Page 21
5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in
the basin of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius
(68 F). Now when the solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3
cups (750ml) of cold water and white salt will appear. 6) Now
the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter
the Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering
the mouth of another jar. 7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper
towel and add an additional 3 cups of fresh cold water & a teaspoon
of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid. Now stir rapidly for
3 minutes and then filter it out again. 8) It is now usable, but I
prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar 2/3 full of
acetone & heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to
it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone.
9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature
and let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again
into it's salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel
around another jar rinse it with cold water the same way you
did before. Now you have the finished product roughly 1 and
1/2 ounces of RDX. 10) Now store your finished product (after it dries)
in ajar with an air tight lid for future use. Seeing that RDX
does not lose it's effectiveness for months.
Uses: RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed
into tubes to make detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe
a method for making detonators in which RDX will be used along
with other explosives before mentioned. RDX however is sensitive
to friction, and can be used as an explosive by itself. It is
also commonly referred to as Clyclonite.
<EFBFBD>
Mini-Compound Detonator
<EFBFBD>
Jack The Ripper This is basically a tutorial in making detonators,
and there are a few rules, that I would like each & every one of you
to follow. Making detonators is very dangerous considering that the
purpose of detonators is for them to be sensitive and easily detonated,
so be careful. Also the detonators I am telling you how to make
are small, but the same principle can be applied on larger scale.
Page
22
Materials: Name
Source --------------------------------------------------------------------------
---- Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores
or hard- tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These ware
stores tubes must also be closed at one end. A substantial quantity
of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX PETN is the center (amount depends
on how many detonators you intend to filling of detonating made)
PETN can be substituted here. cords. A substantial
quantity of primary explosive i.e. Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide.
An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores
FFF black powder.
A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores
also please be safe considering a few of these detonators may
detonate when being compressed, so take the neccessary precautions
such as safety glasses etc...)
Procedure: NOTE: dirt or oil may sensitive the detonators to an
unsafe level so when handling the primary & secondary & ingnition charges
use tongs. Also boil bucket of water in the room as humidity helps
or if your in a house turn your shower on hot and leave it on! 1)
Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each
shell casing before use. Then let the wax cool down. 2) Now
fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
GENTLY and SLOWLY insert the ram and compress the explosive
slowly and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.
3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN
until column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has
been pressed into the 1 inch shell casing. 4) Now add a small
amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the secondary
explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column
of secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until
it reaches height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high. 5)
Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now
seal the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.
Page
23
Diagram: - +++++
| |@@@@| | |****|
| |****| | |####|
1 Inch ------< |####| | |####|
| |####| |
|####| | |----|
- |====|
@ - Black Powder (Ignition Charge) * - Mercury Fulminate or Acetone
Peroxide (Primary Charge) # - RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge) - - Two
drops of wax on Bottom + - Tape covering top = - The bottom of shell
casing | - Sides of .22 Magnum Shell Uses: These little beauties
can be used for almost any purpose or a larger version can be used where
a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use is for miniature
hand grenades and other small explosives.
<EFBFBD>
Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor
<EFBFBD>
Jack The Ripper
This ignitor is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by
either concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently
as a time delay, which I will detail later.
Materials: Potassium Chlorate (drug stores and chemical supply houses)
(Granulated) Sugar (grocery store) Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon,
etc...) Storage Container w/tight fitting lid Mixing Container w/tight
fitting lid 2 flat boards (1 large 36x36 & the other small so it can
be held in the hand)
Procedure: 1) Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on
the large board and rub with the other flat board or a rolling
pin until the particles resemble granulated sugar.
Page 24
2) Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container,
and then add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the
container. Now recap the container and shake the mixture for
4-5 minutes until it has a uniform color and consistency. 3)
Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to
shake it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.
Uses: Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin
capsule and bury the gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture.
Depending on how many gelatin capsules you use & their size depends
on the delay. It can range from 20 minutes to and hour or more. This
type of ignitor reaches a temperature of 3,200 degrees Fahrenheit and
can ignite most incendiaries. It can also be compacted into a
pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.
STINK BOMB
by Dr. Boom If you want more life in your party
(or break it up), you have to try this.
Materials: Aerosol can of whipcream Plastic
bags, styrofoam... Magnesium ribbon 5ml
gas Matches
Procedure(s): Part Buy a can of whipcream (the kind in
the aerosol can) and leave it under your bed for a week for it to
spoil. Press the nozzle for seconds, it can avacuate a whole room
from the stench (think what 10 seconds can do)! Part Take
5ml of gas, and add to it plastic (like bads, styrofoam, etc) until
it won't dissolve anymore or so thick it won't run. Take the cap
off the can and wrap the nozzle 2 times with magnesium ribbon. Leave
1foot for the fuse and take the plastic gas and form it around the
nozzle and light the fuse and run. Watch the fireworks and asked
who squeezed the cheese!).
Page
25 CORDITE
by Dr. Boom Materials: Guncotton
Nitroglycerine Acetone Petroleum
jelly Procedure:
Cordite is a smokeless explosive - you take your guncotton, mix
it with nitroglycerine, petroleum jelly and a little acetone and
let it dry and then you have cordite! You can use it by itself or
with other charges. Have fun!